* I just started a flickr group for any projects made using my tutorials. Please feel free to stop by and post your finished or WIP!
*Bibs made using this pattern may be used for personal use only. It has come to my attention that my pattern has been stolen and was being used along with my tutorial and pictures for a for profit class at a sewing shop. Not cool. If you want the PDF for the pattern, email me.
- Fabric (fat quarters are plenty for this project. You can use as many or little fabrics as you want!
- UPDATED 9/2012 pattern. Click bib1 and bib2 to get the PDF files. It comes in in 2 pieces. Be sure to select fill page instead shrink to fit when you print or you may end up with a wee bib When printed it should measure between approx. 6 1/8th” and 6 1/4th” on the fold and 11 3/4″ from tip to bottom.
- Batting. I used Warm And Natural cotton batting.
- Velcro or snaps. I prefer velcro, it is safer and makes the bib fit longer as you can adjust as the baby gets bigger.
- Scissors that can cut through multiple layers of fabric
- Straight pins
- Marker or pencil for tracing pattern onto fabric. I use a Mark B Gone pen.
- Rotary mat and cutter (optional)
- Chopstick or other tool to smooth curves once bib is turned.
2. Cut out your fabrics. I typically cut the top and bottom pieces around 7″x13″ and the middle piece 3.5″x13″ . That is not a strict rule though! This is where you can get creative. You can have as many strips in whatever width you want. Often times I will feature a cute fussy cut of fabric right smack dab in the middle of the middle row. You decide! See the bottom of this post for more ideas on piecing!
*If you wanted to make some for meal time, most craft stores sell this fabulous stuff called iron on vinyl! Iron it onto your pieces before you piece them together! You won’t need batting for meal bibs.
3. Sew strips together. Use a seam allowance of 1/4″
4. Press seams to either side.
5. Iron in half, right sides together.
6. Place pattern right next to fold in fabric. Using your transfer pen, trace around the pattern. Make the middle section LOWER than the neck opening. It becomes too bulky with the seam if you make it any higher, 1/2″-1″ away is a good amount. DO NOT CUT OUT!!
7. Flip pattern over, match up edges of pattern with lines you have traced and continue tracing bib.
8. Cut your backing and batting the same-ish size as your top.
9. Lay your batting down first. Then lay the WRONG side of your backing fabric facing down towards the batting with the RIGHT side facing up.
10. Lay your top RIGHT side facing DOWN and WRONG side facing up on top of the backing fabric. The RIGHT sides of the top and backing fabric should be facing each other.
11. Pic in several place on the inside of the drawn line. Make sure your fabric is smooth, flat and wrinkle free. Also, make sure the pins go through all layers.
12. Begin sewing right on the line. Leave a 4-6 space along the side where it is straightest so you can turn the bib right side out. Make sure and back tack your stitches at beginning and end or else when you turn it will pull apart and turn into a mess!
13. Using your scissors, cut 1/4″ outside of seam all the way around EXCEPT where you left the open space. DON’T trim there, you want all that fabric so you aren’t left with any raw edges when you are done.
14. Cut notches around all the curves. This is a pain in the you-know-what. Keep going strong! Pinking shears also work great if you have them! Don’t get too close to the seam or you can either clip the stitches, go beyond the stitches or later have fraying that goes beyond the stitches. All of the above are very, very bad.
15. Flip that sucker right side out! Use your chopstick or turning tool to smooth all the curves out to make it lay nice and flat. Iron the flap to the opening under. I trim the BATTING ONLY flush with the outer edge of the bib. Leaving it just creates unnecessary bulk. Pin the opening shut.
16. Starting within the middle section sew or quilt a straight line across. Any allowance really is fine, it is personal preference. Continue with each section moving outward.
17. After the sections have been quilted, sew around the perimeter of the bib catching the opening. Make your allowance small, around 1/8th” to be sure to catch both of those flaps.
18. Attach velcro. One side will go on the top of the bib and the other will go on the back. Be sure to check your placement before sewing to ensure that they match up when bib is connected.
19. Mission complete! You just made a wicked cute bib! Pat yourself on the back, and make another!
* I would LOVE to see any bibs made from this tutorial!
Here are some examples of a more patchwork style with more quilting. The possibilities are endless Be sure to check out the flickr group to see even more examples!
Made by me
Made by me
Made by me